Monday, September 10, 2012

NY Fashion Week Spring 2013 Beauty Round-up Part 1: The Emperor’s New Clothes

I wish I could tell you I’ve got some exciting new trends to share with you from New York Fashion Week Spring 2013, but it seems like all you need is concealer, contour powder and an eyebrow brush to pull off most of the looks I’ve seen up to this point in the week. Last season (Fall 2012) we started to see the trend of the “no makeup” look, but this season seemed practically devoid of color and dimension, with a few brilliant exceptions like Monique Lhuillier and Peter Som.  It kills me when a makeup artist waxes poetic about his or her inspiration and in the meantime every face is practically makeup-free, hence my nickname for this season — The Emperor’s New Clothes.


Victoria Beckham: Yep, this is a shot taken backstage AFTER the model got hair and makeup done. Anyone else curious why the makeup artist couldn't conceal the darkness under the eyes? A little mascara wouldn't kill her either.


Victoria Beckham: Again backstage at Victoria Beckham, it is as if she purposely cast models that had darkness under their eyes. And let's talk about the hair -- parted in the middle and slicked down. It's a bad sign when the hair is unflattering on women who are paid for their looks. It's that, "I haven't washed my hair in a month and I just brushed it" look.


Jill Stewart: Lead makeup artist Diane Kendal was quote in Women's Wear Daily saying that this look was inspired by a faded take on Hollywood glamour. Huh. I've never heard "faded" and "Hollywood glamour" used together to describe a desirable look, but who am I to judge? Of course the models kind of look like they arrived late from Victoria Beckham with that middle-parted matted down hair, and the makeup artist slapped some reddish brown eyeshadow on them, pressed in a little caramel lip color into the lip and sent them out to the runway. Glamour? Really?


Charlotte Ronson: You're going to love this... Makeup Artist Gilbert Soliz for Sephora PRO said in Women's Wear Daily, “It’s about the natural beauty of the ocean.” He claimed he was inspired by a blue plastic jacket in Ronson's line. After I read Soliz's description I quickly checked to make sure I was looking at the right photos. The ocean is the last thing I think of when I see the makeup, which by the way makes the model's skin looks flat and older. Soliz needs to put down the contour powder and rethink his "poetic" descriptions of his inspiration. (Am I being too bitchy? I fear I'm coming off a little bitchy.)


Monique Lhuillier: Oh My God!! It's color, ladies! FINALLY! We have another aquatic-inspired makeup artist here, but 
Val Garland, for MAC actually achieved an ocean-inspired look by "washing eyes with an electric blue hue" and adding a bit of gold shimmer to the inner corner of the eye. Forget the flat skin you saw at Charlotte Ronson, the model's cheeks are perfectly contoured and her face is expertly highlighted to achieve a subtle glow. To avoid detracting from the eyes, Garland used a muted opaque lipstick. Get This Look: Use a blending brush like MAC '286 Duo Fibre' Blending Brush to lightly "wash" a bright blue shadow like SEPHORA COLLECTION Colorful Duo Eyeshadow 09 Tropical Blue from lash-line to brows. Trace a thin line with an electric blue eyeliner like Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Deviant 0.04 oz very close to the lash line. Apply a light shadow or highlighter right below your brow bone and with a small liner brush like Bobbi Brown Eye Liner Brush apply a bit of gold shimmer like MAC 'Hey, Sailor!' Pigmentto the inner corners of the eyes. Brush your brows up, leaving them unruly, and complete the look with a pale lipstick like Illamasqua Lipstick Sonnet 0.14 oz.


Derek Lam: I had  a real hard time choosing a beauty photo from the Derek Lam show since for some reason he seemed to hire models with faces only their mothers could love. The minimal makeup certainly didn't help these ladies -- even though Tom Pecheux, Creative Makeup Director for Estée Lauder, used Color Stay-on Shadow Paint in Extreme Emerald, you could barely see the wash of color on most of the models' skin. And by the way, there wasn't a single mascara-coated eyelash in the house. Simply criminal. I did like the hair by Orlando Pita -- the side part, combed over for some volume towards the back definitely added some elegance to this look.

Peter Som, M·A·C SS13 New York Fashion Week

Peter Som: Now this I love... The models' skin looked flawless and ethereal. I loved how the MAC makeup artists used different combinations of pastels to color block the eyes, depending on the model's features, and then added a transparent shine on top to really make the look come together. To me, this makeup was quintessential Spring.


Peter Som: To complement the pastels in the makeup, the models had faded pastel hair extensions weaved into their hair. The hair gave the look a more downtown, wearable feel.

Photo via www.wwd.comPhoto via www.wwd.comPhoto via www.wwd.comPhoto via Women's Wear DailyPhoto via Women's Wear DailyPhoto via Women's Wear DailyPhoto via MAC Tumblr Photo via MAC Tumblr 

Okay, there are just too many looks to cover. I didn’t even get to my favorite look yet, so I guess you’ll simply have to check back for Part 2 of my NY Fashion Week Beauty coverage later this week!

*All photos courtesy of Women’s Wear Daily.

Janna Posted by Tags ,

One Response to “NY Fashion Week Spring 2013 Beauty Round-up Part 1: The Emperor’s New Clothes”

  1. September 28, 2012 at 4:05 pm, Spring / Summer 2013 Beauty Round-Up: London and Milan Mash-up - Beauty Binge | Beauty Binge said:

    […] know I was a bit rough on New York Fashion Week, but come on, the “no makeup look” is getting a bit out of hand.  It just seems lazy […]


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