Posts Tagged ‘Wella’

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Guest Post: My Kick Ass Colorist

I am in love with my colorist.  I’ve been colored by at least twenty colorists throughout NYC (including Brooklyn) for the past 10-15 years.  Most were fine, but all were underwhelming.  I wasn’t expecting miracles. I mean, come on, I’m a brunette. How much can they do?  But I wanted something, some subtle wow.

I found my subtle wow with Meghan Baldwin at Eva Scrivo Salon in NYC.  She is the first colorist to really analyze my features. She then combines that information with my wants and her artistry, and creates the kind of color that makes me match my makeup and clothes to the different hues.

I asked Meghan to jot down some thoughts, share her knowledge, and tell you a couple secrets you probably haven’t heard before. Enjoy:

Determining the right hair color well suited for a client can make them look more vibrant and compliment their skin tone.   Two important rules for hair color is matching your skin tone and staying within your natural color range. Do you know what color skin tone you have?  In order to figure this out, you need to know what undertones make up skin tone: 

        If your skin is COOL toned, avoid using yellow, gold, bronze and red tones.  (This will cause skin to appear sallow)

        If your skin WARM toned, avoid black, violet and blue tones 

All this comes down to a client’s consultation (my consultations sometimes last 30-40 minutes).  Their input is extremely important — figuring out what they like about their hair and what they’d like to see different.   Everything from their appearance (bone structure, eyes, skin, weight, clothing), their lifestyle (career and time spent at home to recreate your work), hair texture, and head shape all play a role in executing my client’s expectations.

Janna has been a client of mine for a little over a year now.  Every time she comes in, it’s a fun experience for the two of us!  She loves keeping people guessing and wondering what color she will be next!  Janna has cool skin and a pink base (which fortunately looks good with almost any hair color if done properly). 

Like I do with each client, we started with our consultation.  After about 5-10 minutes of getting a clear understanding of what we were doing we began mixing.  We decided to go deep brown with blue/purple undertones; this helped cool the red in her cheeks and make her blue eyes POP!  I used L’Oreal Majirel on her roots and Wella Color Touch on her ends.  While her base was processing, I balayaged (hand-painted) a few highlights to frame her face.  These few highlights add amazing subtle dimension to Janna’s haircut and color. 

After one shampoo we towel dried really well before adding glaze, making sure the ends are slightly dryer then the roots.  I used  Wella Color Touch  86 Pearl Violet  and a cool natural to tone her ends. We left it on for about 10-15 minutes, keeping a close eye on color because each visit can be different.  After glaze and rinsing color I typically seal a client’s color in with a treatment.  I prefer to do treatments after color because the cuticle is opened and can penetrate into the hair shaft.  I prefer to use Kerastase Nutritive  Nourishing Treatment (Aua-OleumVita-CimentOleo-Fusion, or Pixelist), depending on the client.  These treatments last 3-4 weeks — adding shine, vitamins and helps seal in color.

I am strong believer in using quality product to protect your investment.  For Janna, I recommended Bumble and Bumble Cool Blonde Shampoo to help maintain her color as long as possible.  Keeping bright tones in a client’s hair is not always easy (especially reds because they do rinse) Bumble and Bumble’s color shampoo works well keeping hair vibrant and protecting bright colors.

 To visit Meghan and get your owns subtle wow (or not so subtle):

Meghan Baldwin

Eva Scrivo Salon


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